Hej! Just to say hello from K3 . . . Thomas Kaan-Ayla-Selinn. We are having a blast here in our new home in Turketreis in Turkey. Every evening we see the sun set over the Greek climbibg island Kalymnos. It is just to hot to rock climb so more time spent in the pool. P-A
A toast to Farmer, Dawn, Kevin and Bayard!! They have made all of us proud and have honored the Hutchinson Center with their commitment, enthusiasm and skill. Throughout the climb, the analogies to cancer research have been apparent. Like our researchers, the climbers have advanced to places that had previously been unexplored, have gathered new information, and have done so in a safe and rational manner. Although the summit was not reached, the Big Expedition was a tremendous success in illustrating the vital need for cancer research. Before I close, I’d like to share with you the thoughts and words of Cherry Payne, Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve Superintendent, “My compliments to the team and the Hutchinson Center. After all the effort and the public awareness of the effort, the team has demonstrated they are consummate professionals in making this decision. Thanks to those who were involved in selecting and supporting the team. I regret I am not around to thank and bid everyone goodbye personally (I’m in Montana). It has been a pleasure working with all involved.” We will be in Alaska tomorrow to welcome our 4 climbers back and we should all be back in Seattle abut midnight Wednesday evening. Kit
Big Expedition ends Peak 8290 attempt 500 feet from the summit.The metaphor for cancer research is complete. There are more unclimbed mountains to challenge. Late on Saturday, our team of Farmer, Dawn, Kevin and Bayard on the Big Expedition for Cancer Research determined that they had reached the safe limits of their attempt to climb one of Alaska’s unclimbed peaks. For 9 hours, they battled unstable snow, ice and rock to move within 500 vertical feet of the summit of Peak 8290 in Glacier Bay’s Fairweather Range. The two rope teams huddled at the high point and called an end to their attempt of the unclimbed mountain in the inaugural Big Expedition for Cancer Research. Lee Hartwell, president and director of the Hutchinson Center, when receiving the news said ““The climbers are to be congratulated for going so far under trying conditions but especially for putting safety first. It is a true reflection of a principle that governs the research we do in each of our clinical trials. We are proud of the team for their successful challenge of this unclimbed mountain.” “Extremely hazardous” were the first two words out of Farmer’s mouth when he made the sat phone call back from base camp to Seattle. “We gave this mountain everything we had within the boundaries of safe, rational mountaineering standards. Sometimes the mountain sets the limits and we have to accept them,” he said. The team had been battling deteriorating weather conditions for three days. After establishing their 5100-foot base camp at the end of the week, they spent a day carrying a cache of climbing equipment top of a saddle at an elevation of 5500 feet for better access to their proposed route. They returned and began to plan their ascent of the Northeast Ridge of Peak 8290. It was determined that leaving early in the evening would help mitigate the daytime warming temperatures that were making the snow and ice very unstable. The National Park Service in Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve was very supportive and helpful throughout the expedition relaying weather conditions to the team on a regular basis. The team left base camp on skis at 9:15 pm on Friday evening. They reached their cache in less than an hour and changed into climbing boots for the ascent. The team then traversed the flank of the ridge, working slowly and meticulously to avoid crevasses and other objective danger. They again took stock of the route in front of them and then moved up onto the Northeast Ridge as a group in two rope teams. Farmer and Dawn n one team and Kevin and Bayard on the other. Progress was slow. The snow was very soft and mushy and there was avalanche danger to avoid as they progressed. Above the 6000 foot level, they encountered unstable rock under the snow as they slowly ascended closer to the rock pyramid at the top of the mountain. What they realized as they crossed the 7000 foot level was that this mountain was “a big pile of rocks”. The Northeast ridge and it summit pyramid had looked majestic from a distance, but in reality “it was like stacks of china teetering in the wind”. Every step was a balancing act. At approximately 7800 feet, the rope team of Mahoney and Russell looked hard at the treacherous traverse over to the summit pyramid. It was a 70 degree slope covered with crusty, “sugary” snow. The area was unsupported and there was no protection if it broke away and slid down the mountain. The danger was greater to those below the lead climber because anything (ice or rock) that was punched out by a foot or an ice axe would fall on those following behind. After evaluating the treacherous situation, the two teams made the decision together that the summit was not to be. This was not a mountain that was ready to be conquered. After accepting that fact, “We were comfortable that this was the right decision. We had met the challenge and found it to be too daunting for us to return safely, if we advanced any further,” Farmer said. The descent to base camp was arduous as a new weather front moved in and it began to snow. The team reached base camp late Saturday afternoon and took stock of their encounter with the mountain. Two other less attractive unclimbed peaks nearby were discussed among the team members and it was determined that the same rock and ice conditions would be encountered there. Putting that option to rest, the group made the call back to headquarters in Seattle to say that the Big Expedition was coming home. Thousands of interested citizens have followed this journey for cancer research in the media and online. Success is in the advancement of the cause. The Big Expedition for Cancer Research is a concerted effort to draw the public closer to the enormity of this task. As the team returns, the quest for more unclimbed mountains continues.
The four mountaineers attempting an unclimbed mountain in Glacier Bay National Park are in position to make a summit attempt in the next two days. “Our nemesis is the wet, slushy snow. When we’re not using our skis we’re “post-holing” (sinking in the snow) up to our knees. It’s very tough going,” said Farmer via satellite phone. They have established a base camp on the south side of a saddle in the Fairweather Range at about 5100 feet. “We have a beautiful view looking south across the snowfield. We can even see the water. We think it’s the ocean but we’re not certain,” Farmer reports.Yesterday, the team took their skis and some other equipment like bivy sacks (high altitude overnight sleeping bags) to a stash closer to Peak 8290 for the summit attempt. They plan to leave base camp at midnight tonight (Saturday, 12 am), pick up their skis and equipment and move across the northeast flank of the mountain. That should take them about two hours. They want to do as much climbing as they can during the night because that is as cool as the mountain will get in this weather.Their route will be direct up the northeast ridge of the mountain. The first 2000 feet of the ridge are in the snow. It is then that they encounter the final 1000 feet to the summit on a “perfect rock pyramid”, as they described it earlier in the week.Selected by an advisory committee made up of climbing legends, (Matt) Farmer, Dawn Glanc, Kevin Mahoney and Bayard Russell have come together as team to climb this unclimbed and unnamed peak in the name of Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center. This national awareness project is a metaphor for the valuable work being done at the Hutchinson Center and in many other locations around the world to eliminate cancer as a cause of human suffering and death.We anxiously await their next report.
Pizza and the Celtics! No matter where you are, you’ve got to celebrate! The snow on the icefield the Big Expedition team is traveling on is very soft and mushy. “We’re sure happy we brought our skis. It would be tough going in this stuff without them,” said Farmer in the latest satellite phone call. The team reached the base of the saddle, which is a bit steeper than expected in what was characterized as “a grunt!” The team will venture over the headwall to the surface of the saddle without their gear in order to find a good place for their base camp. “We don’t know whether we’ll camp on this end (the south side) or the other until we have a look at it,” Farmer commented, “We’ll do that tomorrow.” It will a take a long day or more to establish base camp. And after that, they will begin to plan their route to the summit of Peak 8290. The weather with high clouds, a 40% chance of rain and temperatures in the 50’s, should aid them in their move up onto the Saddle. The team only had one question though. What was the outcome of the Celtics-Lakers game? When they heard that the Celtics won the championship and the score was 131 to 92, a huge cheer came from the entire team…especially the Northeasterners who are obviously big Celtics fans. How are you going to celebrate? “Pizza has been our best meal so far!” What could be more satisfying? “The summit of Peak 8290 wouldn’t be bad!” The next report will come after the team has put in their base camp… a little less than 2 kilometers from the mountain.
Greetings!!!
We had very exciting news today - the Big Expedition was featured in Times Square!! We have captured it in the attached photo. We are obviously thrilled with the exposure the Big Expedition is gaining and I wanted to share the photo with all of you immediately. Quite a team!!!We continue to hear from the team and all is well. There was some jubilation over the Celtics’ win!! We have begun posting the updates on our web site www.fhcrc.org
There is a link to several photos after the first update. If you would like me to send you copies of any of these photos electronically please let me know. I am happy to do, I just didn’t want to jam anyone’s in-box. Again, please let me know if I can be of any assistance. On to the summit!!
The early week was cloudy with a little drizzle on the Brady Icefield. With packs and sleds, the four mountaineers continued to make progress toward their base camp objective. They are still gaining elevation . With several hundred pounds of gear, progress has been slow, but steady. After traveling straight across the glacier, the team has now turned in a easterly direction. At the end of the day after making this directional change, they got their first look at Peak 8290 from the ground. “Striking!” is Farmer ’s description. “An 800-foot perfect rock pyramid at the top!”Jim Wickwire, who saw this peak some 30 years ago while climbing in the Fairweather Range, said that’s how he would describe it , as well. When the team did their flyover in February, Kevin Mahoney was excited about all the snow. All he could think about was what a great ski run it would be. When the team went in this week, Kevin suddenly remembered what spring can do the mountains. “There’s a lot of rock up there,” he said. Revisiting their encounter with the bear, who they haven’t seen since, Farmer said the only other wildlife to be seen so far was a marten, a weasel-like furry animal with a long tail. This one was loping across the icefield alone, probably looking for something eat. Tomorrow, the team’s objective will be the base of the saddle, where they will ultimately put their base camp. There they will set-up all their tents and gear and begin identifying their route to summit of Peak 8290. They’re getting close.
Read more at www.fhcrc.org. Gallery from the expedition.
Team Moves Across Icefield after meeting the “Visitor”On Monday, June 16, the four mountaineers on the Big Expedition for Cancer Research were on the Brady Icefield and picking up their pace toward base camp. Via satellite phone, Matt Farmer, who likes to be called Farmer, said that the team was in good shape and moving toward the Southeast corner of the icefield where they will get their first look at Peak 8290 from the ground.Since arriving at Reid Inlet on Saturday, the team has had two good days for travel. On Saturday, they moved all their gear approximately 1.5 miles up to the top of Reid Glacier. The terrain was too steep to use their sleds so they each had to make three round trips with only their packs to reach their first overnight camp.Not 5 minutes after they brought their last load to the campsite, the “Visitor” appeared. Remember the bear that the Park Service told them about? He poked his head up over the moraine not 50 feet away and just looked at them. The team grabbed every pot, pan and noisemaker they could find and began beating, banging and screaming at the top of their lungs. Mr. Bear just looked on in amazement. Fortunately, in this remote location, the “Visitor” hasn’t really seen any humans so he probably was watching the team make each carry during the day wondering what in the world they were doing. Regardless, after observing for awhile, he sauntered off and was not seen again.Great precautions were taken that first night. No fire. No cooking. Only cold food for dinner. The food was buried and every crumb picked up. There was surely one eye open at all times that night.Sunday, Day Two on the glacier, was a glorious and sunny. There was still some elevation to deal with so the team still was not moving at top speed. In spite of that, they covered almost three miles and enjoyed a great day in the Fairweather Range. Thus far, the Big Expedition has gone according to plan…except for the “Visitor”. Everyone is healthy. The gear is working and they are bearing down on their base camp location. More to come.
Read more at www.fhcrc.org. Gallery from the expedition.
Team arrives in Reid Inlet and moves onto Brady Icefield
Aboard the 26-foot Alaska Dream fishing boat, Matt Farmer, Dawn Glanc, Kevin Mahoney and Bayard Russell reached the starting point of the Big Expedition for Cancer Research under cloudy skies at noon, Alaska time, on Saturday, June 14. In addition to Captain Jim Kearns, the team was accompanied by Kit Herrod and Dan McConnell from the Hutchinson Center Organizing Task Force. Ten large duffels, four pairs of skis, utility sleds, satellite equipment and a computer were quickly unloaded on the rocky shore in comfortable 50 degree weather. The team immediately began to reorganize and repack the gear for the ascent of the glacier to the location of their first overnight camp. On Sunday, the planned four day journey to base camp for the attempt on the unclimbed, unnamed mountain, known only as Peak 8290 begins.
The four mountaineers arrived in Seattle last Wednesday evening in order to make final preparations for the Friday flight to Glacier Bay National Park. Last minute equipment deliveries and fresh food purchases were done on Thursday, while all the gear was packed for the Alaska trip in a huge conference room at the Hutchinson Center. Throughout the day, well wishers stopped by to look at the piles of gear and equipment that the team would be taking to the mountain. Rainer Storb, who met with the team in January on their first visit to the Hutchinson Center, looked on and shook his head saying, “This is quite an undertaking…quite something. I wish them all the best!”
The major hurdle on Friday’s flight to the park was checking the mountain of gear that accompanied the team. With the new airline baggage regulations, there was concern that getting all the duffels and skis on the plane with the team would be a major difficulty. However, as it turns out there are friends of Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center everywhere, including Sea-Tac Airport, and check-in went very smoothly.
It was about halfway through the 17-minute flight from Juneau to Gustavus near the entrance to Glacier Bay National Park that the flight attendant came on the loudspeaker and said, “We are privileged today to have the members of the Big Expedition for Cancer Research on board with us. They will be attempting to climb an unclimbed mountain in the northern reaches of the park for Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center. Let’s wish them well with a big round of applause,” and that’s just what they got. It all seemed very real at that point.
On Friday evening, the team met with officials from the National Park Service who showed their support for the Big Expedition. Park Superintendant Cherry Payne, Head Ranger Randy Larson and Margaret Hazen, visitor use supervisor, spent a couple of hours with the team discussing all the elements of the expedition, showing recent photos of the mountain and the approach and offering every resource they have to help make the Big Expedition a success. The special use permit that was issued to the team is the first such permit granted in over 30 years. The team exchanged some wry smiles and grins when they were told about the brown bear that has been hanging around the beach in Reid Inlet looking for seafood. It was suggested that the team should make their camp on the icefield at least a mile from the beach and there were absolutely no arguments.
The boat ride on Saturday morning was chilly but stimulating. Dawn said she just had to see a whale before she left the park and she didn’t have to wait that long. An hour or so into the trip, two young humpback whales came to see Dawn and the rest of the team. The whales breached several times and crossed in front of the boat as if to wish the team a safe journey. Along with several sea otters with babies on their chests and bald eagles, the wildlife in the park all joined in to kick-off the Big Expedition.
As Alaska Dream pulled away from the shore, the team began assuming their roles for the journey of a lifetime. The parallels to the work being done by cancer researchers at the Hutchinson Center are very clear. It is a long, hard road but it is dotted with successes that advance us toward the ultimate goal. The mountaineers became small specks on the vast Alaskan landscape but there was no doubt that their contribution would be worthy of major note in the years ahead. We wish them well.
Read more at www.fhcrc.org. Gallery from the expedition.
